Diesel Engine Installation Guide

Diesel Engine Installation Guide

Cummins | Powerstroke | Duramax

1. Installation, Break-In & Maintenance

Proper installation is extremely important to avoid costly mistakes that can void your warranty. Correct installation, verifying and replacing engine support system components, and proper maintenance will lead to a long-lasting engine.

⚠️ WARNING: If you are not confident in your ability, please do not take on the responsibility of installing this engine; you may be liable for any damage resulting from improper installation or support system failure.
💡 BREAK-IN PROCEDURE: Please note that for the first 5,000 miles of the break-in, we do not recommend towing anything over 5,000 lbs. Once the 5,000-mile mark has been reached, the truck can then safely tow its full capacity.

2. Surface Conditioning Disc Warning

THE AERA TECHNICAL COMMITTEE OFFERS THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION REGARDING THE USE OF GRINDING DISCS AS OBTAINED FROM THE GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION.

⚠️ CRITICAL WARNING: When cleaning engine gasket sealing surfaces, surface conditioning discs (typically constructed of woven fiber or molded bristles) that contain abrasives, such as a high amount of Aluminum Oxide, are NOT RECOMMENDED. The information contained here supersedes any previously published service information regarding the use of surface conditioning discs and pertains to all current and previously manufactured engines.

Risks of Using Abrasive Discs

  • The use of such surface conditioning discs dislodges Aluminum Oxide from the discs and metal particles, which can lead to premature engine bearing failure. In some cases, this failure occurs in as few as 1,000 miles or less after the repair has been made.
  • Surface conditioning discs may grind the component material and embed it into the disc. This can result when more aggressive pressure is applied during the cleaning/grinding of the gasket surface.
  • Abrasive pads will produce fine grit that the oil filter will not be able to remove from the oil. The grit that cannot be filtered out has been known to cause engine damage.
  • Abrasive pads can easily remove enough material to round cylinder head surfaces. This has been known to affect the gasket’s ability to seal, especially in the narrow seal area between the combustion chamber and the coolant jackets.
  • Abrasive pads can also remove enough material to affect the cylinder head, block oil pan rail, and intake manifold runner flatness, which can cause coolant and oil leaks. It takes only about 15 seconds to remove .008” of metal with an abrasive pad.
💡 PROPER CLEANING METHOD: To clean gasket mating surfaces, General Motors recommends the use of a razor blade or plastic gasket scraper. When cleaning gasket surfaces, please note the following:
  • When using a razor blade-type gasket scraper, use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and corresponding block surface.
  • Hold the blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible. This will ensure that the razor blade does not gouge or scratch the gasket surface.
  • Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces.
  • Do not gouge or scratch any engine-sealing surface during the cleaning process.

The appearance of the gasket surface is not critical—the feel is. There is a possibility that there will be some indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all the gasket material is removed. The new gasket will fill these small indentations when it is installed.

3. Pre-Installation

⚠️ CRITICAL WARRANTY REQUIREMENT: For the overall health of your new Choate engine, and to assist us in diagnosing any warranty issues that may arise, the following steps must be followed upon installation of every engine platform. We request that for every step, photographs and documentation of adherence to this installation manual be recorded. We will need this information to register your warranty.

When You First Receive the Engine

  • Inspect for Transit Damage: Carefully inspect the item for damage in transit. Any shipping damage should be noted on the shipping receipt before signing and returning it to the driver. Call immediately and we will give instructions.
  • Verify Fitment: Inspect the item to ensure it is the same as the unit you’re replacing. It is the installer’s sole responsibility to verify fitment before attempting to install the item. Be sure to check if the engine is a manual or automatic transmission.
  • Read Tags & Bulletins: Read all warning tags and any additional information or product bulletins supplied with the engine.
  • Shop Manuals: Have the most recently updated shop manuals available for information on factory specifications (torque, timing, etc.).
  • Identify Previous Failure: Find out what caused the old engine to fail. This is the most important step in pre-installation; address the issue so it does not cause the new engine to fail and void your warranty. (Document on Warranty Registration)
💡 ECM PROGRAMMING: It is the installer’s responsibility to document all codes needed to program the ECM (e.g., injector codes) before proceeding.

Check All Your Existing Components Now

  • Clean any parts that are to be reused, including bolts.
  • Clean & Photograph Exhaust and Intake Manifolds: These need to be clean of any rust or debris. Debris from the previous engine, including piston, piston ring, valve, and valve seal material, can be trapped in the intake manifold, intake plenum, and EGR system. This debris will be recycled into the new engine and will cause it to fail, voiding your warranty. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Photograph Air Filter: Photograph the new air filter and filter housing. These should also be clean and/or new.
  • Photograph Torque Converter: Photograph the seated torque converter in the transmission with a measurement of the bellhousing mounting surface of the transmission to the face of the converter. Incorrect installation of the torque converter will damage the transmission and will, at the very least, reduce the life of your new engine.
  • Check Gasket & Seal Surfaces: Clean the gasket mating surfaces of all parts being transferred from the old engine with a gasket scraper or razor blade. DO NOT CLEAN ANY SURFACE WITH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS OR ABRASIVE PAD/BRISTLE DEVICES, as these can cause contamination to the new engine and/or damage the surfaces so they don’t seal (See Section 2: "Surface Conditioning Discs Warning").
  • Only use gasket adhesive where required by the gasket manufacturer or vehicle manufacturer.
  • It is the responsibility of the Buyer and/or the Buyer’s technician/installer to provide any and all data logs.

4. Installation Checklist

IT IS THE INSTALLER'S RESPONSIBILITY TO DIAGNOSE, REPAIR, REPLACE, AND VERIFY THE PROPER OPERATION OF ALL ENGINE SUPPORT SYSTEMS.

Parts to Inspect, Clean, and Replace (If Necessary)

⚠️ MANDATORY REPLACEMENT: OIL COOLER, OIL PUMP, WATER PUMP, AND AIR COMPRESSOR (where applicable) MUST BE REPLACED.

Critical Action Items

⚠️ WARRANTY NOTICE: DAMAGE TO THE NEW ENGINE CAUSED BY ENGINE SUPPORT SYSTEMS (FUEL, COOLING, ETC.) IS NOT COVERED BY YOUR WARRANTY.

5. Installation

⚠️ EMISSIONS WARRANTY NOTICE: ALL EMISSION SYSTEMS MUST HAVE A WELL-DOCUMENTED CLEANING SCHEDULE WITH RECEIPTS PRESENTED AT ANY TIME OF WARRANTY.

Check the Engine for Interference

Rotate the crankshaft by hand a minimum of four complete revolutions before engaging the starter. Small pieces such as sockets, nuts, bolts, etc., that may have been dropped into the intake manifold or intake ports during installation will cause catastrophic failure to the new engine.

If you cannot rotate the engine by hand, STOP IMMEDIATELY and inspect for foreign debris in the engine.

Prior to Oil Fill

  • Install a New Oil Cooler: Document with a photograph. A dirty oil cooler can clog lifters or more, causing massive damage to your new engine. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • For 6.4 and 6.0 Powerstroke: Photograph the oil bypass plug and the oil drain back valve. If these are not working properly, you will have oil delivery and/or filtration issues. (Document on Warranty Registration)
💡 INJECTOR LEAK TEST: To be sure injectors are installed correctly and are not leaking fuel, place a clean and empty catch pan under the oil drain plug and remove the drain plug. We recommend placing the vehicle’s ignition key away from the cab to ensure no accidental dry starts occur.
  • Actuate the fuel pump for 30 minutes via a scan tool, taking a VIDEO of a stopwatch at the beginning and end of the process.
  • Inspect the catch pan for fuel. If fuel is present, repair, and repeat the testing process. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Ensure all grounds are attached to engines and documented. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Photograph the oil and type being used with the oil filter. (Document on Warranty Registration)

Prior to the First Crank

  • Monitor and document exhaust back pressure and barometric pressure with the key on, engine off. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Add the appropriate volume of break-in oil. Monitor and document oil pressure and ambient temperature before and during initial start-up. (Document on Warranty Registration)
💡 COOLANT VACUUM TEST: Prior to adding coolant, pull a vacuum on the coolant system and hold it for 3 minutes with the vacuum pump turned off. Document with a VIDEO. If the system holds a vacuum, you should have no leaks. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Fill the system with the appropriate coolant and remove any air in the system. We recommend using a vacuum system to install your coolant. These systems do a better job at ensuring there are no air pockets within the engine. (Document on Warranty Registration)

Prime the Engine

This is essential to avoid a dry start issue that will cause the engine to fail and void your warranty.

  • Disable the fuel and ignition system.
  • Using a pressurized pre-lube engine oiling system is the preferred method. These are available from the engine manufacturer for an additional cost or can be purchased at most parts retailers.
  • Make sure that oil flows to the top of the engine and into the rocker arms.
  • After priming and purging the oiling system, check and adjust oil levels as needed.
  • Fill the new filter with oil.
  • Fill the cooling system to the manufacturer’s recommended level.
  • Use the proper antifreeze/water concentration per the original equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
  • Bleed cooling systems according to vehicle manufacturer guidelines; if this is not done, overheating will occur.

Initial Start-Up

  • After the first crank, monitor and document oil pressure, ambient temperature, oil temperature, and coolant temperature at full operating temperature.
  • Monitor and document mass air flow readings while the engine is idle. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Drive the truck for 30-45 minutes.

6. Break-In

⚠️ CRITICAL START-UP NOTICE: BREAK-IN OIL AND OIL FILTER MUST BE INSTALLED PRIOR TO INITIAL START-UP PROCEDURES.

What is Break-In Oil?

  • Break-in oil is a critical component of an engine rebuild. It allows controlled friction in low-load areas like piston rings.
  • It provides exceptional protection to areas with high loads, such as the camshaft and lifters.
  • An engine rebuild is a complex procedure that can take weeks or months to complete. The engine break-in process is the final step in the journey.
  • This ensures that all surfaces within the engine are fully mated, particularly the piston rings and valvetrain. A proper break-in is vital to a successful build. For this reason, it is crucial to choose the correct engine lubricant.
  • Conventional oils are used because they provide both full hydrodynamic films and allow for sufficient friction and heat to properly wear mating parts together.
  • Synthetic engine oils can actually prolong break-in time and potentially glaze cylinders, which will incapacitate proper ring seating. This is because synthetic engine oils inherently have lower friction coefficients.

Break-In Oil vs. Regular Motor Oil

  • Break-in oil is typically a conventional-based lubricant containing zinc/phosphorus (ZDDP) and moly anti-wear compounds.
  • ZDDP forms a polar attraction to surfaces in the engine and creates a sacrificial layer. This prevents metal-to-metal contact in areas where a full-fluid oil film cannot exist.
  • Molybdenum disulfide is a sulfate-based additive that protects against corrosion and oxidation while also reducing friction. Break-in oil contains an aggressive detergent/dispersant package to trap contaminants and metal particles, keeping them away from engine parts.

Why Do I Need to Use Break-In Oil?

  • Because of ever-increasing limits on formulations, engine oils at your local auto parts store or big-box retailers contain low amounts of ZDDP. Experts believe that ZDDP is corrosive to emissions devices in high concentrations.
  • Today’s spec engine oils have 30% less ZDDP chemistry than they did just 15 years ago. ZDDP is the bread-and-butter of anti-wear chemistry. For this reason, spec engine oils are not good for performance engines. In fact, they could cause your flat tappet camshaft to quickly fail. Low ZDDP levels can also negatively affect roller cams.
  • High ramp rate, high lift camshafts, and stiffer valve springs (common in performance applications) can increase the load on the cam beyond what spec oils can handle. Break-in oil provides an advanced level of protection because it contains a higher quantity of additives.
  • The controlled (intended) wear inside the cylinder prevents oil from being burned off at an increased rate due to oil building up between the piston and cylinder. Break-in oil assists in the designed wear process so that regular engine oil can subsequently maintain ongoing protection.
💡 RECOMMENDED BREAK-IN OILS & DURATION: Use break-in oil only long enough to seat the engine. We recommend Driven Racing Break-In Diesel Motor Oil. Use the correct oil based on climate temperatures:
  • BR 30: (-20°F to 0°F)
  • BR 40: (0°F to 32°F)
  • DBR 15W-40: (32°F and above)
It is OK to use the Driven Racing break-in diesel motor oil with the 6.7 Powerstroke. Use the break-in oil for only 50 miles. Allow the engine to reach full operating temperature. The abrasive wear caused by engine break-ins can increase exponentially, so it’s important to change the oil as soon as a proper break-in has occurred.

Check Exhaust Back Pressure

Verify back pressure through a scan tool or manual gauge to ensure the scan tool shows barometric pressure when the engine is off. (Note: SCT does not allow for correct back pressure). Warm up the engine and run it at a steady 2200 RPM, then read the gauge.

Checking exhaust back pressure is important because a restricted exhaust system means that the exhaust system is not functioning properly, which can lead to premature engine failure, including but not limited to burnt valves, scored pistons, or blown head gaskets. (Document on Warranty Registration)

⚠️ WARRANTY NOTICE: Engine failure caused by a restricted exhaust system is NOT covered under your warranty (no matter who you buy the engine from), so it is in everyone’s best interest to measure back pressure when installing.

Cooling System & Initial Idling

  • Never add cold water to the cooling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature.
  • Start the engine, let it idle, and monitor oil pressure and oil temperature. Record oil pressure when cold and again at 180 degrees of oil temp. Both recordings are to be taken at idle. (Document on Warranty Registration)
  • Never use "Tap" water as it will cause rust to the engine block. Use distilled water with the correct coolant mixture required by the manufacturer.
  • The coolant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. If applicable, adjust tappets. If the coolant should “boil over”, stop the engine and allow it to cool, then start the process over.

Extremely Important Engine-Specific Warnings

⚠️ 6.4 POWERSTROKE & 6.6 DURAMAX LB7: At this time, remove the dipstick and check the oil level. Because of the design, the fuel lines run under the valve cover. Fuel can enter the crankcase, damaging the lower bearings, which would NOT BE COVERED under warranty. Be sure to verify the oil is not “growing” on the dipstick. Checking multiple times over the course of the next few weeks can save an engine! This is a MAJOR issue that can easily be resolved if found soon enough.
⚠️ 6.0 POWERSTROKE: Verify that you installed the proper glow plugs. 2003-2007 6.0 Powerstroke engines must use ZD-32 glow plugs to prevent catastrophic damage to the engine. Damage resulting from improper glow plug installation will not be covered under warranty.

Final Drive & Seating the Rings

  • Retorque cylinder heads and manifolds if required by the manufacturer.
  • Start the engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 MPH in the “drive” range or select the proper gears for standard transmissions.
  • Periodically accelerate to 50 MPH and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times.
  • Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are “breaking in” the engine. The rapid deceleration increases the vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring assemblies.
  • Driving the vehicle for approximately 25-40 miles under the above conditions will accomplish the initial break-in of rings, bearings, and mating surfaces.
⚠️ MANDATORY OIL CHANGE: CHANGE THE INITIAL BREAK-IN OIL AND FILTER AT THIS STAGE. THIS IS AT NO MORE THAN 50 MILES.

Next 500 Miles

  • For the first oil change, 15w-40 conventional or semi-synthetic is recommended. (10w-30 is recommended for the 6.7 Ford Powerstroke).
  • Do not drive at continuous speeds for long periods; always vary your speed.
  • Do not tow a trailer or put any heavy loads on the vehicle to avoid “lugging”.
  • It is recommended to check oil and coolant levels daily or every 100 miles.
  • Avoid idling for long periods, which can lead to cylinder “glazing”.

After 500 Miles (No More Than 750 Miles)

  • Change the engine oil and oil filter.
  • Check fuel and cooling system components.
  • If applicable or recommended by the manufacturer, adjust valves and retorque cylinder heads and manifolds.
⚠️ CRITICAL OIL RESTRICTIONS:
  • Do not use full synthetic oil for the first 20,000 miles. Partial synthetic oil is approved.
  • Do not use any GF-S oils. The use of this oil will void all warranties.
  • The use of Rotella oil is not recommended as of December 2016.

Ongoing Maintenance

  • Perform scheduled maintenance as outlined in your vehicle’s owner manual. If you are unsure or have questions about routine maintenance, call the manufacturer.
  • Failure to perform routine maintenance can result in engine damage that may not be covered under your warranty.
💡 WARRANTY & RECORDS REMINDER: Retain all records (invoices, receipts, repair orders, etc.) related to service or maintenance performed on your engine or engine support system. In the event of a product failure, you will be required to provide copies of maintenance records and installation invoices.

Don’t forget to complete your warranty registration!

7. Support & Contact Information

We are here to ensure your engine installation is a complete success. If you encounter any issues, have questions about the break-in procedure, or need to discuss your warranty registration, please do not hesitate to reach out to our technical support team.

Choate Engineering Performance

Have a question? Call our technical support team:

(901) 553-9847

Or visit our Contact Page for more ways to get in touch.

8. Download PDF Manual

Need to print this guide for the shop?

Download the complete Choate Performance Engine Installation, Break-In, and Maintenance Guide as a PDF to keep a physical copy on hand during your build.

Download PDF Version